Liguria was not love at first sight, like for everyone else!
It was wintertime and we were having a team-building trip. So, off we went to Liguria, staying at a former monastery, nestled on the first line of hills above Levanto and with amazing sea-views. Unfortunately, with no heating. The hiking was fabulous, however quite difficult in the snow that rarely hits the coast! The typical pastel-color houses, the beaches, the wood, the sea: everything had turned white and seemed had lost the lively colors you expect to see along the Mediterranean coasts.
In the following 15 years, I’ve been returning often to Liguria, and – I confess – I never met the snow again. The colorful multi-story palazzi, painted in the muted pinks, yellows, and terracottas with their deep-green shutters were there. The sea was blue and so was the sky. However, just to be sure, definitely visit in the warmer seasons!
Stretching from the French border in the west to La Spezia in the east, the stunning 186 miles Riviera Ligure is dotted with charming resorts and medieval towns; the dramatic mountainous hinterland hides hilltop villages and plenty of scope for walkers and climbers.
Start your journey at boutique hotel Relais San Damian, a quiet and peaceful getaway nestled among the hills, just 15 minutes away from Imperia and the sea. A great retreat run by the friendly owners Pamela and Roberto. Spend there a few nights to relax.
There are several beautiful walks but the one to the nearby Dolcedo village rewards with the most spectacular views. Enjoy their manicured garden, swim in the infinity pool, and soak in the views. Sip a glass of fine wine al fresco under the palm tree while waiting for the night, lit by firebugs and the twinkling lights of the villages below. If you look for restaurants, bars, and shops, there is plenty in Oneglia, Sanremo and you can also reach Montecarlo. Check the day, if you want to do the whale watching trip because they do not sail every day. Bike lovers must try the 24km free-traffic route which runs on a disused railway line along the coast between San Lorenzo and Ospedaletti.
FROM DOLCEDO TO BORGOMARO
Move then inland to the little village of Borgomaro, an ideal escape from the madding crowds, where the time is measured by the sound of the church bells. At charming Relais del Maro you feel truly welcomed and this is the right place to recharge your batteries. The sincere friendly atmosphere and the yummy biscuits at tea time will become part of your travel memories. Have a good start with the best of Ligurian products and then choose your walk among the 20 trails available. There is one that crosses the olive groves until the village of Lucinasco where you can buy olive oil directly from the producer. You can also hire a guide to explore or rent an e-bike. Relax at the pool and enjoy the garden during the summer months.
Visit the coastal medieval village of Noli, passing through the busy seaside resorts of Alassio, Albenga, and Finale Ligure. Noli is a hidden place that Italians have kept for themselves and where everything is reachable on foot or by bike.
Explore the Grotta dei Falsari and walk to the old fishing village of Varigotti. Mountain bikers will love to ride along the spectacular routes on the Altipiano delle Manie, an inland terraced area between Noli and Finale Ligure that offers amazing sea views. The icing on the cake, there is a bike shuttle service in the area.
FROM BORGOMARO TO SANTA MARGHERITA LIGURE
Move then towards Santa Margherita Ligure, a summer retreat of well-heeled Milanese families for generations, few miles from the V.I.P. village of Portofino. On your way, stop in Genoa to visit the old picturesque center and the Italian biggest Aquarium. Find your eureka moment relaxing at the sandy beach in Paraggi bay (one of the best in Liguria!) before shopping in popular Portofino and hiking in the Natural Park. Take the beautiful trail that from Santa Margherita goes uphill until San Rocco to soak in the spectacular views over the surrounding countryside before descending the 900 steps staircase to the fishing village of Camogli. Pass through olive and citrus trees, cactus, stands of palm, under boughs of myrtle and laurel. Alternatively, take the shorter trail to San Fruttuoso and then the ferry to Camogli. Do not miss the typical Focaccia al formaggio di Recco (cheese focaccia).
FROM SANTA MARGHERITA TO MONEGLIA – LEVANTO (CINQUE TERRE)
Following the Riviera di Levante, reach Moneglia, a charming village before the Cinque Terre, to escape the crowd. Stay at romantic Hotel Abbadia San Giorgio which is one of the best-converted cloisters you can find, so unique and different from the regular hotels and without compromising on luxury and comfort. Greta and Francesca are two incredible hosts, best friends since childhood! Relax on the grounds of the monastery, in the calm and tranquil atmosphere after a busy day of hiking at the Cinque Terre. The hotel is very close to the railway line that follows the coast connecting all the 5 villages (forget to go there by car!).
Reach Monterosso, the first largest village, and start the Sentiero Azzurro cliffside hiking route passing through colorful villages, terraced vineyards, and small harbors full of fishing boats. Plan your trip in advance and consider that the first hike from Monterosso to Vernazza takes two hours and it is quite leveled with some steps; the second part to Corniglia takes other two hours; the third part runs mainly downhill to Manarola in one hour. The last one to Rio Maggiore, called Via dell’Amore (Love Path), takes just thirty minutes. If you get tired, just catch the train to the next village. Do not forget to bring some water and food. Hiking adventurous can also choose the 12 hours trail from Levanto to Portovenere (but it’s really hard!). Are you ready to enjoy the most memorable views of Liguria?
Families may prefer to stay in lively Levanto, the last seaside village before the Cinque Terre and at just 10 minutes from Monterosso. The 4-star Park Hotel Argento, which has also an outdoor pool and an indoor spa, and the family hotel Carla are two great options. Both have also a delicious restaurant to try: fresh herbs, extra virgin olive oil, and local seafood mark their local cuisine and you will taste the authentic Ligurian flavors.
If you prefer to eat with locals in Liguria, click here.
Enjoy spectacular Liguria – it will be love at first sight!
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