Piedmont in the northwest of Italy is the place to escape the crowds and enjoy an authentic Italian experience. The region has long been the powerhouse of Italy. It was the driving force behind the unification of the country in the 19th century, it is home to Fiat, the car giant, and is a gastronomic heaven for food lovers with 41 starred restaurants. It also gave birth to the Slow Food Movement which campaigns for a better food system for all and has over a million supporters in 150 countries. The Piedmontese are proud of their heritage and there are numerous food festivals and fairs in spring, summer, and autumn. In spring, Piedmont’s green lush fields are surrounded by an amphitheater of snow-capped mountains and in autumn the vineyards turn a deep russet red. Turin is renowned for its belle epoque cafés and gianduiotto chocolates. Children will be delighted to hear that Nutella chocolate spread is made in Alba. The little village is popular also for its Michelin-starred restaurants: Locanda del Pilone and Ristorante Larossa. They have one star each and offer delicious tasting menus. Some dishes are more traditional while others reflect the creative extravaganza of the Chef. They both have an extensive wine list that deserves to be praised. Piedmontese cuisine is rich and creamy. Porcini mushrooms, chestnuts, delicate veal, and snails all feature on the menu. Fabulously expensive white truffles are found in the countryside and are served in thin slithers on pasta and risotto. In autumn you can go hunting for truffles with a professional truffle hunter and his sniffer dog.
Historic Asti is the center of the Italian sparkling wine industry. Enjoy a glass of Cinzano as an aperitif and visit the cellars in Canelli, where the sparkling wines are fermented and which are a candidate for Unesco World Heritage Site status. Wine-tasting tours at Cantina Contratto and Cantina Coppo are a must! Langhe and Monferrato are home of some of Italy’s finest wines: Barolo, known as the “king of wines”, Barbaresco, Grignolino, Barbera and Dolcetto d’Acqui.
These are 2 boutique hotels with gourmet restaurants I selected to unlock the secrets of Piedmontese cuisine and hospitality!
La Villa is a charming boutique hotel nestled in the vineyards of Monferrato. It’s the perfect base from which to explore the quaint medieval villages that pepper the countryside. The hotel is owned by Chris and Nicola, a husband and wife team. Chris is from England and Nicola is from Irland. The 17th-century farmhouse was a wreck when they brought it and moved to Italy with their daughters then aged eight and eleven. The girls are now both at university and buildings are beautifully restored. Stylishly chic La Villa has been designed as a place to relax. The 14 unique rooms are all spacious, light, and bright, furnished with a mixture of antiques and locally crafted furniture creating an atmosphere of country-chic.
Some rooms have four-poster beds, exposed beams, and a private balcony or terrace overlooking the rolling hills of Monferrato towards the Alps. There is a large outdoor pool and a roof terrace with stunning views. There is also a gym, massage room, table tennis, and bikes if you fancy exploring on two wheels. The restaurant, La Vie, which is also open to the public, is excellent. Although they are not interested in Michelin stars, they certainly deserve one. Their simple dishes capture the essence of Italian cooking and are made with top-quality seasonal ingredients. Be sure to take one of their cookery courses so they can teach you how to cook up a storm. Since Chris and Nicola moved to Piedmont they have set out to discover the best that the area has to offer and can direct you to the region’s top gourmet food and wine producers.
Casa Isabella is a small boutique hotel with an intimate restaurant in a cozy farmhouse in the rolling hills of Monferrato, 5 minutes walk from the village of Vaglio Serra. The property has only 4 rooms, each painted in relaxing pastel color and decorated in a country-chic style that combines antique furniture and modern design.
Monica and Alessandro abandoned the city life in Turin for this beautiful rural part of Italy. Friendly and welcoming, they are enthusiastic hosts and make you feel as if you are an old family friend. The couple loves this little-known corner of Piedmont that has much to offer and is full of advice on how to enjoy it to the full. They are happy to direct you to some excellent local restaurants, vineyards, and small farms. In autumn you can also go truffle hunting in the woods and if you are lucky enough to find one, you can eat your treasure grated on pasta or eggs for dinner. Alessandro has a passion for wine and has a cellar full of the best local labels. He is always happy to uncork a bottle with his guests. Monica is an excellent cook so be sure to try one of her typical Piedmontese meals or aperitifs served with local salamis and cheese, in front of a roaring fire in winter or at the side of the pool in summer.
Slow down and savor Piedmont!